Guide misses beat of heartland
By Nigel Benson
Tuesday, 12th September 2006
Dunedin is hot but heartland Otago is not, according to an international travel guide book due for release today.
The latest New Zealand edition of Lonely Planet praises Dunedin, although other Otago towns fare rather less well.
While Dunedin’s thriving arts and cafe culture and accessibility to wildlife made it irresistible to international tourists, Alexandra, Cromwell, Ranfurly, Lawrence, Balclutha and Gore were all singled out as best avoided by travellers.
“Punctuated with some of the South Island’s most unusual natural wonders and its most accessible wildlife, the Dunedin and Otago area is a rolling, scenic chunk of land that’s edged by the restless Pacific Ocean. At its heart is the increasingly cosmopolitan city of Dunedin with its profusion of arts, cafes, music and student life, along with a couple of the country’s top museums and some elegant Victorian architecture,” Lonely Planet contributing editor Korina Miller wrote.
“Dunedin’s compact town centre is a comfortable blend of the historic and the contemporary, reflected in its alluring museums, tempting cafes, unique shops and excellent accommodation options.
“Unhurried and rife with picturesque scenery, Otago is generous to explorers who are after something a little less than usual. The best part is there’ll be no crowds to share it with.”
Dunedin was becoming increasingly popular as “a mellow city nurturing a strong artsy side”, Miller said.
“If you can unglue yourself from the city’s cafe scene, the raggedy-shaped Otago Peninsula lies practically in Dunedin’s backyard and is teeming with wildlife and outdoor activities.”
The guide book also singled out the Otago Museum for special praise.
“The fantastic Otago Museum can easily fill your senses for a day. Bright and modern, its interactive exhibits give a thorough look into the area’s cultural and physical past and present. Definitely worth a visit is the Tangata Whenua Gallery, which houses an amazingly long Maori war canoe, beautiful meeting house carvings and a Kiribati warrior with a fierce-looking shark-tooth sword. Fossil buffs will be gobsmacked by the museum’s plesiosaur, moa skeletons and remains of the once local crocodile.”
However, Central Otago’s attractions received a mixed review from the book.
“While the miners have long since picked up sticks and left, they’ve left behind some of Otago’s most charming towns and villages, complete with period architecture and lovely riverside settings,” Miller wrote.
“While Cromwell claims to be a town, it is hard to shake the impression of an outdoor shopping mall. Cromwell leans heavily on its fruit production, but the real attraction is the restored village on the banks of the river. It’s not worth a trip in itself but, if you’re passing through, it’s a great place to stop for a wander and lunch.”
Queenstown was described as a town of “atmospheric restaurants, laid-back cafes, excellent boutiques and spellbinding views”.
Oamaru and Clyde were the only other Otago towns to find widespread favour with the international traveller’s bible.
“Once the centre of the Dunstan goldfields, this tiny historic town oozes atmosphere,” Miller said about Clyde.
“With fabulous 19th century architecture, some interesting walks, excellent dining and accommodation options and a friendly small town feel, it’s a great place to chill out for a couple of days.”
The attractions offered in Oamaru, including penguins, penny-farthing races, the historic precinct and “gorgeous public gardens”, are also praised in the book.
“Forrester Gallery has an excellent collection of regional art and hosts diverse temporary exhibits, including contemporary media. This really is a fantastic gallery which is, shockingly, free.”
But Alexandra was “nondescript”, St Bathans “spooky” and Ranfurly “was trying a little too hard to cash in on its Art Deco past”.
Overall, New Zealand was considered a highly desirable country to visit by international travellers.
“The fascinating mix of Maori, Polynesian and Pakeha culture, as well as the nation’s quirky eccentricity and genuine community vibe, is the recipe that makes New Zealand’s personality so attractive,” Lonely Planet editor Errol Hunt wrote.
Five Lonely Planet editors spent 26 weeks covering the country for the latest edition.
Dunedin
“Becoming increasingly popular as a mellow city nurturing a strong artsy side.”
Reaction: “We used to be the world’s best secret, but it doesn’t look like we are any longer.”
Dunedin Mayor Peter Chin
Alexandra
“The reason to visit this rather nondescript service hub is for the nearby mountain biking.”
Reaction: “Our world-class mountain biking would turn anyone’s head. But next time, Lonely Planet should slow down a bit and try some of our new gold; the best pinot noir and summer fruit in the world.”
Central Otago Mayor Malcolm Macpherson
Gore
“Despite appearances, the townsfolk don’t bite.”
Reaction: “The townsfolk might not bite, but the fish sure do and if Lonely Planet want to come back I’m more than happy to be their guide.”
Gore Mayor Tracy Hicks
Lawrence
“A few tumbleweeds blowing down the main street would complete this tiny town’s Wild West feel.”
Reaction: “Maybe they missed the main street of Lawrence and ended up in the rodeo grounds.”
Jafa’s owner, Mary Trifunovich
Cromwell
“While Cromwell claims to be a town, it’s hard to shake the impression of an outdoor shopping mall.”
Reaction: “It’s a pity they didn’t stay a bit longer and meet some of the people and discover the real Cromwell.”
Cromwell Community Board chairman Neil Gillespie
Clyde
“Once the centre of the Dunstan goldfields, this tiny historic town oozes atmosphere.”
Reaction: “There are big things happening in this town. There’s a lot of capital and skills coming into Clyde.”
Oliver’s Restaurant owner Jason Lopas
http://www.odt.co.nz/article.php?refid=2006,09,12,1,00100,0fe2f4b0ed57c2e2f4bf12fd78a730d0§=0
lack of sleep didn’t help as felt very flat 
